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Norm30/05/2020
So I put it together and it didn't seem to work so I pulled out oscilloscope and did some troubleshooting. I notice some other comments that I will address in the construction notes.
1) LED - The cathode (short lead) goes in the hole on the inside of the board.
2) Glue the coil to the board. I used a poly urethane cement only because I had it handy. I also put some glue over the wire where it comes off of the coil to protect it from breaking.
3) The real key though was the diameter of the primary (2.5 turns) coil and the direction it is wound (opposite to 320 turn coil). I used terminal connectors that allowed me to try different coils. The same number of turns, but with a wider diameter worked very well. I also used a thicker gauge of wire (not sure if this really made a difference).
Operation
- I used a laptop power supply 16.5V at 4.5A although I doubt it drew very much.
- There was a visible corona, followed by a strong smell of ozone. (Note that ozone is hazardous to your health.)
- When I had the tight 2.5 turn coil installed, LED1 didn't come on, the neon (gas) bulb lit, but barely. With the wider 2.5 turn coil, both LEDs were lit. LED2 only shows that power is applied.
- I was able to light up a compact florescent tube, the neon bulb lit up when held a couple inches away.
Measurements
- The waveform on the collector of the NPN TIP 31 transister showed a square wave with a fundamental frequence of about 4.5MHz with a harmonic riding on top of it of about 50MHz.
- The amplitude was about 55V and varied with slight adjustments to the primary coil. Assuming (and this is a rough assumption as there are other factors involved) that the ratio was 320/2.5 turns between the secondary and the primary, the voltage is thus about 7KV. Note again through this is at a very high frequency which is the magic of tesla coils. High frequencies travel on the outside of conductors. If you do touch the corona, it will burn through your skin (your skin is an insulator).
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